From 2nd City to 2nd City

Quetzaltenango, Guatemala´s second largest city, capital of the western highlands, is more commonly known locally by it´s Mayan name Xela (pronounced Shey-luh). On the map above follow the Pan American Highway (yellow line) west from the capital. Sorry if the map is too small. In case you didn´t know, you can always click on the images to view a full size version.

Much smaller than Guatemala city, 300 thousand people to the capital´s 5 million, Xela is clean, orderly and conservative. A mountain town, the temperature drops below freezing or nearly at night, but gets downright hot in the sun during the day. Still, one is comfortable wearing long pants all day and adding a sweater in the mornings and evenings. Personally, I would call the climate ideal if not for the chill dampness in the night. Makes me miss Chicago´s nosebleed dry winters. Well, a little.

As the commercial hub of the mountains, Xela grew to prominence in the coffee boom of the 1800´s. Previously the economy had been focused on growing bananas and other export crops in the lush coastal regions, but coffee needed to be grown in the highlands, and the previously ignored indigenious mountain people became cheap labor for the colonial elite. Xela grew to rival Guatemala City in population, wealth and influence, even briefly declaring independence from 1828-1830, but it was completely devastated by an earthquake in the 1920´s. The city was rebuilt with high expectations, but never regained it´s previous glory.

My guidebook interestingly decribes the city as "vaguely reminiscent of an industrial town in northern England – grey, cool, slightly dour and culturally conservative."

Personally, the city is the perfect size for a 3 month stay. Small enough that I expect to learn it intimately, but full of interest and surprises. It would take over an hour to walk from one end of town to the other, but I expect to mostly concern myself within a half hour of the center. The streets are cobblestoned, often barely wide enough for a car to pass. The sidewalks are only wide enough for one person to walk abreast with constant steps up and down as if every house needs to have a higher sidewalk than the next. I will have to take a picture for you.